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THE BACK STRAP LOOM OF ARUNACHAL PRADESH

Arunachal Pradesh is famous for its traditional weaving technology of loin looms also referred to as back-strap or body-tension loom. It is one of the oldest devices for weaving cloth. Loin loom weaving is a legacy which has been passed down by the women folk to successive generations from age-old times and upholds their artistry and originality.

A continuous warp is stretched between two parallel bamboos, one end tied to a post and the other end held by a strap worn around the weaver’s lower back. The weaver moves backward and forward while weaving to regulate the tension of the warp with her body. Bamboo shed pole is strategically placed to separate the warp to create two layers. The heald stick, lease stick, and wooden rods are different implements, each serving different functions. Finally, the weft, which holds everything together is carried and beaten into place to weave the designs.

Historical and archaeological evidence of the use of backstrap looms has been found across Peru, Guatemala, Bolivia, China, Tibet, Korea, Japan, Myanmar and India 一 specifically in the Northeastern states of India are still in use today. In several communities in the northeastern states of India like Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram & Meghalaya, weaving using a backstrap loom is a customary and domestic practice for women and is passed down the generations in a family. Ethnologists believe the use of the loom spread from South Asia to the Pacific Ocean, and eventually to South and Central America.

The loom continues to be used by indigenous to the weavers of Arunachal Pradesh. Traditionally, the colours of the woven fabrics as well as motifs and patterns have been identifiers of ethnicity. Originally used to make wrap-around skirts and shawls, contemporary weavers have begun incorporating modern designs and colours, creating fabrics for home furnishings, such as cushion covers, tablecloths and wall hangings, to cater to a larger national and international market.

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