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Tripuri Textiles

RIANG, JAMATIA, TRIPURIA, Chakma, Mogh are among the 19 tribes who weave the traditional Tripuri costume of simple rectangular wraps on the loin or body tension loom in its distinct set of motifs and colors. The loom is light, mobile, ingeniously simple and inexpensive to construct and made of locally available materials like bamboo and wood. Well suited to tribal life and terrain, it is significant as a symbol of the peoples` efforts to remain self-sufficient. The fabrics woven on this loom are narrow and warp dominant. The riah (breast cloth)is woven as a single strip whose width depends on the age of the wearer while the pasra (wrapped skirt) consists of two pieces that are joined to make the required larger width. Other than daily wear, some of these textiles also play a vital role in the ceremonial and ritual life of tribal societies and are greatly valued as heirloom objects. Patterning, which is mostly symmetrical, ranges from colorful stripes running in the direction of the warp, to figurative and geometric motifs woven in supplementary weft that intersperse the ground. Weaving is exclusively a woman`s activity and passed on from mother to daughter, each family weaving to meet its own needs. Traditionally woven using natural dyed cotton, the more commercialized contemporary pieces have almost entirely shifted to using acrylic as a raw material, as it is cheaper and requires less skill in weaving.

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